Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Creating the Ring Step By Step

1- Get your metal and stone.
2- Measure the circumference and depth of your stone.
3- Cut a strip from a flat sheet of metal using the depth of your stone as the width.
4- Use rounded pliers to shave the metal into a circle as best as you can.
5- Place the stone in the top of the metal and cut the excess metal.
6- Solder the two sides together.
7- Put the soldered piece onto a mandrel (image attached) so it is on tight and will move.
8- Hammer the piece on the mandrel the it is round. Turn the piece over and hammer the other side so the whole thing is a circle. The bezel is now finished.
9- Use a piece of thick wire and shape it so it fits perfectly on the sides of the bezel using pliers to make it round.
10 - Once the thick wire (the shank) is somewhat rounded and is lying flat on the sides of the bezel, solder both sides.
11- Place the shank attached the the bezel on the mandrel and hammer until it is perfectly round.
12- At this point, the bezel is flat on the bottom so if you try to put the ring on, it won't fit. In order to make it fit, the bottom of the bezel needs to be filed down using a small round file so that it is well rounded with the shank.
13- Next, the inside and outside of the shank, as well as the bezel, need to be filed so they are smooth and even. This is done by using a rounded file on the inside of the shank and twisting side to side. Since the sides are flat, a flat surfaced file is used to smooth it out. Finally, a very small, fine file is used on the bezel in order to get in the smaller areas that way there is a smaller risk of mistake.
14. The next step is polishing. There are a few different attachments that are put on the polishing machine. First, a small rubber attachment is put on to smooth the inside of the shank, but be careful, this one gets very hot and can easily burn your fingers. The polishing disc is used next which is a soft pad that gets the outside of the shank, the sides, and the bezel.
14- After the ring is nice and shiny, it is time to set the stone. The stone is placed in the center of the bezel and then a bezel roller is used to press against the edges at about a 45 degree angle which pushes the sides of the bezel of the stone so barely covers the sides.
15- The final step of the ring making process is to go back and polish the ring once again to get it as shiny as possible so none of the marks are showing from the stone setting.

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